Time is a valuable commodity. We are about to change the fundamentals of high-mountain expeditions.
While a regular Ama Dablam expedition can require 20-30 days, our Flash expedition takes 17 days while increasing safety and chances of success.
A stunning trekking route in a less frequented part of the Khumbu leads us to the Ama Dablam base camp, passing the Cho La Pass with an altitude of 5420m. This assists us – in addition to the hypoxie-tents at home – in reaching a profound acclimatization, so that once we arrive at this technically quite challenging mountain no further acclimatization rounds are needed and we can start a direct ascent attempt on the beautiful Ama Dablam. Almost sleek alpine style. However, we do not want to do without our Sherpas who set up the high camp and the route. So all we have to do at the base camp is to wait for the perfect weather window. Then our time has come. On one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. On the Ama Dablam.
One of the main reasons for a failed climb of a high summit is the long acclimatization time at the mountain. The repeated ascents and descents, the threat of catching an infection at the base camp, where many people must live in a very crowded space, robs many climbers the energy even before the actual climb has started. To raise the chances of success, we begin with the acclimatization process via hypoxic tents at the participants’ home, 4 weeks prior to our actual departure to Nepal. Those tents are going to be set up by our experts and under their supervision, the expedition members body will slowly be acclimatized to a height that is equivalent to the highest Camp at Ama Dablam. Furtenbach Adventures is using hypoxic tents since almost two decades and we have a long experience with these means of acclimatization for high altitude mountaineering. In 2016, our team was the first successful Everest expedition, where all participants where pre-acclimatized with hypoxic tents. This decreased the time we had to acclimatize at the mountain significantly, before we could start our ascent to the summit. After reaching the summit, we were also the only team that was able to descend in one go to Camp 2. This higher performance capacity contributes largely to the safety aspect, thanks to proper pre-acclimatization.
These special preparations, combined with small groups, the latest equipment, an experienced team (some of our Sherpas have climbed Mount Everest up to 19 times) and our vast organizational experiences allow a total expedition duration of only 17 days. So far, we are the only operator at Ama Dablam that can offer such a short period without increasing any risks. Since decades, the fundamental techniques, equipment, high-altitude medicine and weather forecasts have been developed over time. The climbing tactics however have remained the same as they were in the 1970s. We are about to change that by providing a modern climbing alternative which meets the current state of the art and respects the general principles of safety.