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K2 and Broad Peak

K2 8.611m und Broad Peak 8.051m – two mighty peaks in Pakistan

Here we’re offering something truly special: A guided expedition to Broad Peak 8.051m, followed by an attempt on the legendary K2 8.611m – fully acclimatised, on a pre-established route and with prepared high-altitude camps, supported by oxygen and Nepalese Sherpas. And if that’s too much for you, you can call it a day after Broad Peak.

The Furtenbach Adventures K2 and Broad Peak Expedition is a unique opportunity.

Broad Peak is characterised by its distinctive, relatively direct route and comparatively short technical sections, with the more demanding passages secured with fixed ropes. While the mountain offers a relatively straightforward line to the summit, Broad Peak remains a serious high-altitude expedition, where altitude, weather, extreme cold and objective hazards demand respect and thorough preparation.

At Broad Peak, our experienced expedition team works closely with the local high-altitude porters and support staff to establish and secure the route and to create the best possible conditions for a successful ascent. The combination of extensive preparation, careful acclimatization and experienced high-altitude support makes the Furtenbach Adventures Broad Peak Expedition a well-structured way to approach this extraordinary mountain.

After Broad Peak, we will set off on a short trek to K2 Base Camp, which is almost within sight. Work on the mountain is already underway there. Whilst the group recovers and waits for a suitable weather window, preparations for the high camps and the route continue. Thanks to our acclimatisation on neighbouring Broad Peak, we have avoided having to make multiple ascents and descents on K2, which is objectively more dangerous and technically more challenging. As soon as the weather is right, we will set off on a direct summit attempt via the beautiful standard route on the south-east ridge (Abruzzes Spur). Sherpas and high altitude porters will accompany us, and oxygen will be available to every participant. If we succeed, the absolute highlight of every mountaineer’s life awaits us!

For this expedition, we will fly in our experienced experienced Sherpas from Nepal, who will support our Pakistani high altitude porters and secure the route. This provides an additional safety measure.

Adventure Factor brave
Experience / Emotion lifechanging
Fitness / Struggle challenging
Risk the height and the bottleneck
Comfort expedition style

Highlights:

 

  • Acclimatization on Broad Peak
  • Experienced, Nepalese Sherpa team
  • Cesen oder Abbruzzi Route depending on the conditions
  • Certified Western guide

Trip dates:

Booking code:-
Minimum members:-
Price per person: 0

Due to the complex logistics of this expedition, there may be changes to the planned itinerary during the trip. The exact itinerary depends on the weather, snow conditions, the progress of insurance work on the route and the timetable of other groups in order to avoid potential traffic jams as far as possible.

For a successful ascent, in addition to the basic conditions created by us such as oxygen supply, sherpasupport, base camp, route, high camp etc., a large portion of luck, good weather, condition, ability and mental strength of the members are required.

The expedition can be extended, if the conditions require it and the members wish this and bear the additional costs incurred. We move in a very remote, politically highly sensitive area where official or environmental restrictions of our freedom of movement must be reckoned with at any time.

The following schedule is planned:

Day 1 - 11: Arrival, Skardu and spectacular hike to Broad Peak basecamp

Day 1: Arrival in Islamabad, meeting point at the hotel in Islamabad.  Members have a day at leisure while the expedition leader handles last administrative things with the authorities.

Day 2: Either two days bus trip to Skardu with overnight stay in Chilas or a flight to Skardu, if the conditions allow it. The bus ride has it’s charm, leading through the varied landscapes of Pakistan to the Indus valley, where we take the legendary Karakorum Highway. On the second day shortly after Chilas views of Nanga Parbat with the Rhakiot flank mastered by Hermann Buhl. Overnight stay in a hotel in Skardu.

Day 3: We spend the day in the small but lively town of Skardu at 2.300m. The porters are organised, the luggage is loaded, final errands are run or a hike is undertaken.

Day 4: Drive with Jeeps through a wild, impressive landscape and wild gorges to Askole at 3.050m. For those of you who have never been here before, this will probably be the most exciting trip of your life! Overnight stay in tents in the small village of Askole.

Day 5-11: An impressive hike through what we believe to be the most spectacular mountain valley in the world, the Braldu valley. Overnight stay in a tent. On the first day we follow a relatively flat path through a very dry and barren landscape up to Jhula at 3.100m. On the second day we reach the last small green oasis settlement Paiju at about 3,500m altitude. There we will possibly have a rest day, which the porters need to prepare for the further way on the Baltoro. On the fourth day we are already moving on the legendary Baltoro-Glacier. We reach our camp Urdukas on about 4.150m next to the glacier. And right across from the Trango Towers! An incredibly impressive view! The fifth day leads us past the beautiful Muztagh Tower to our next camp, Goro II at 4.200m. Because of the spectacular views, the hikes here are very entertaining and you’ll have to force yourself to look at the path. On the sixth day, we reach the famous Concordia Plateau at around 4.600 metres, where so many researchers, explorers and legendary mountaineers have set up camp. From here, we can see two of the most beautifully shaped mountains on the planet: Masherbrum and Gasherbrum IV. Broad Peak, K2 and Hermann Buhl’s ‘mountain of destiny’, Chogolisa, also feature prominently in this stunning 360-degree panorama. On the last day we reach the base camp on a lateral moraine of the Godwin-Austen Glacier.

Day 12 - 33: Summit ascent Broad Peak 8.051m

Days 12-33: We will take at least three weeks for the ascent Broad Peak, however we want to stay flexible due to weather and snow conditions as well as the members‘ needs and requirements. We will set up 2-3 high camps. The first, which we could skip later on, will be situated on a small plateau following the first firn flank at 5.700m which will be secured with fixed ropes. The next camp will be at ca. 6.300m and the last one at 7.100m.
The summit tour first takes us to the 7.800m high saddle between the northern peak and the pre-summit, then via the wide ridge with a few easy climbs (second level of difficulty – here we will use a fixed rope) to the pre-summit. From here we easily (walking terrain) continue over a wide, gently sloping ridge that is by far not as long as often described, towards the main summit. This ridge is often blown off, facilitating easy advancement. If conditions are good, and members are in a healthy and normal state, we can accomplish this in about half an hour there and 20 minutes back.

Day 34: Trek to K2 base camp

Day 34: The K2 aspirants undertake a comfortable 3 hour hike over the Godwin-Austen Glacier to our K2 base camp at 5.100m. The others make their way back to Skardu via the shorter route over the Gondogoro pass or stop at a smaller base camp with reduced service for another summit attempt, in case the first one was not successful. The way back to Islamabad is organized, an individually planned return is available at extra cost. The way back to Skardu usually takes around 4 days. Arrival to Islamabad would then be on the 39th day, the flight home on the 40th day, unless you decide to undertake a second summit attempt. We want all members to have as many opportunities as possible for their summit success. For more flexibility, we recommend to book a flexible flight fare for your flight back to Europe.

Day 35 - 56: Summit ascent K2 8.611m

Days 35-56: Once again three weeks. First, we rest and recharge our batteries, organize material and then wait for suitable weather for a direct ascent attempt via the Abbruzzi spur with 4 high camps. We will reach camp 1 at 6.000m with relatively low difficult via a 40 degree steep Firn flank. From there it continues through snow gullies and mixed terrain to the first key point, the approximately 25m high House Chimney which will be secured with fixed ropes. Shortly thereafter we reach camp 2 at 6.600m. The way to camp 3 is strongly dependent on the conditions. It’s a mix of snow slopes, rocky passages and mixed terrain with individual steep stretches until our south spur coincides with the east ridge (Black Pyramid). From here we follow the easier eastern ridge to camp 3 at 7.350m. The route from camp 3 to camp 4 at about 7.900m on the shoulder is a technically easy snow ridge.
In camp 4, we see two things very prominently: the intoxicating panorama on one side and the dangerous serac with the infamous “Bottleneck” on the other side. This is the most dangerous part of the route. The bottleneck will be the key passage for the summit day and as such it will be secured accordingly with fixed ropes. Approximately 100m after the bottleneck the terrain becomes a bit more subdued, and a few more meters of a simple snow slope lead us to the summit.
Weather permitting, we may have time for a second summit attempt.

Day 57 - 63: Return journey to Islamabad

Days 57–61: Dismantling of the base camp and return to Skardu via the Gondogoro Pass. Overnight in tent and hotel in Skardu.

Day 62: RSkardu – Islamabad. Return to Islamabad. If possible with flight otherwise again the two-day bus ride. Overnight stay in a hotel in Islamabad.

Day 63: Individual return journey.

check_circle Included services:

  • All organization of the expedition
  • Certified Western guide
  • 2 nights hotel of high category in single room in very safe quarter of Islamabad
  • All transfers (private bus or flight to Skardu – depending on the weather, jeeps to Askole)
  • Full board during the whole trip (in Islamabad half board)
  • All drinks included in Basecamp
  • Twin room for stop-overs on way to basecamp
  • Baggage transport to basecamp and back (40 kg personal luggage/member)
  • 1 tent for two members each for approach and high camp
  • 1 tent per member in the basecamp
  • Mat for approach and base camp
  • High camp equipment (tents, stove, gas, dishes, food)
  • All fixing material for the route
  • 1 Nepalese Climbing Sherpa per member
  • Rental oxygen package with a mask, regulator and bottles (Summit Oxygen)
  • Insurance and equipment for staff
  • Medical emergency oxygen
  • First aid kit, high altitude emergency medicine, pulse oximeter
  • Kitchen crew
  • Comfortable, heated group tent, shower tent etc. at basecamp
  • Satellite communication and WIFI for a fee and depending on availability
  • Solar charging
  • Radio transmitter for base camps and high camp
  • All fees & permits
  • Liaison officer
  • State helicopter rescue deposit (the actual cost of the rescue must be covered by insurance or Global Rescue Membership. See here.)
  • Environmental deposit
  • Weather report
  • Safety and liability of an EU based tour operator

highlight_off  Not included services:

  • International flight to/from Islamabad (we are happy to make you an offer)
  • Excess baggage on the flight to/from Skardu in case a flight is possible (20kg + 7kg hand luggage is included, but the costs for excess baggage are manageable and not comparable with European standards)
  • Lunch in Islamabad
  • Personal insurances
  • Visa for Pakistan
  • Personal medications
  • Alcoholic beverage
  • Summit bonus for the Sherpas
  • Tips
  • Personal mountain and climbing equipment
  • Sleeping bag for base camp and high camp
  • Mat for high camps
  • Fees for satellite phone, emails, internet
  • All services not specifically mentioned in “Included services”

For the K2 you have to be a very experienced mountaineer with eight thousand meter experience. The Abbruzzensporn at K2 is the most difficult normal route on an eight-thousander. We recommend oxygen for the summit day at the latest (this is included in the price). This means that the statistically most accident-prone passage under the Hängeserac after the shoulder and the bottleneck can be climbed much faster and safer both on the ascent and the descent. The fixed ropes in the summit area are only laid during the ascent to the summit. If you want to ascend without oxygen, you can do so, as long as you can prove that you have the appropriate experience and skills.

Of course each mountain can also be booked individually: Either K2 or Broad Peak.

The return journey can either take place with the double expedition, which means that you have enough time for another summit attempt, or within the scope of the change of the two groups to the respective other mountain. An individual return trip can also be organised at any time for an additional charge.

info  General

Tour operator for this trip: Furtenbach Adventures.

An expedition to high altitudes still presents an enormous challenge despite modern equipment and tactics. Besides technical and fitness requirements, the high altitude still poses the largest hurdle. That is why we place great emphasis on prudent, slow acclimatization, and recommend our eight thousander expedition members the possibility of pre-acclimatization in a high altitude tent at home (see also FAQ).

Weather and conditions on the mountain can lead to program or route changes. Participation in the expedition lies in your own individual responsibility. Furtenbach Adventures assumes no liability for accidents, damages or loss of materials.

If you are not sure that taking part in an expedition like this is the right thing for you, feel free to contact us on Tel +43 512 204134 or e-mail [email protected] for a personal consultation.

This package in general is not suitable for persons with reduced mobility.

https  Insurance

We strongly recommend taking out a travel insurance (including trip cancellation, interruption, medical and luggage insurance) For this journey, the Global Rescue Signature Travel Insurance is suitable. The price of the insurance depends on the trip and the personal data of the traveller. We happily make you an offer after booking or upon request.

To cover search and rescue costs in the mountains, we ask our expedition members to take out a “medical only”-membership at Global Rescue. This membership can be concluded here before departure: https://ss.globalrescue.com/partner/furtenbach/. Further information are provided after your booking.

language  Entry requirements

EU or Swiss citizens:

Pakistan:

When entering the country, you need a passport with a validity of at least 6 more months. Each member must apply for the mountaineering visa early enough via the following website: https://visa.nadra.gov.pk.

All required documents will be sent and announced by Furtenbach Adventures well in advance. Information about recommended vaccines and health regulations: http://www.who.int/ith/en/

Travelers must be able to prove their return or onward ticket when entering the country. More detailed information regarding entry, visa and health requirements for this travel destination will be provided once you’ve communicated your nationality.

work   Equipment

Unless specified otherwise in the detailled program, all high camp equipment will be provided by us. You need to bring your own personal equipment such as down clothing, expedition shoes, an isolated sleeping mat and a down sleeping bag. Following your booking we will send you a detailed equipment list. We will be happy to advise you personally during the selection and purchase of required equipment. With years of expedition experience, we know what has proved its worth and what not.

insert_chart_outlined  Difficulty / Technique

The ascent always lies in the member ‘s personal responsibility, while led by the mountain guide and expedition leader. Members must be able to move safely and independently in mixed terrain (rock, snow, ice) and – if required – independently build rope teams under the guidance of the mountain guide. Cooperation, camaraderie and support on the mountain increases the chances of success for all. The guide is there to provide guidance for the whole group, the possibilities for him to respond to individual needs is limited. It is imperative that members adhere to the instructions and decisions made by the mountain guide. Regardless, each member must know their own physical limits, and be able to make a timely decision to turn back.
For expeditions offered by us, unless otherwise specified in the detailed program, the following is required of members: independent getting on and off the fixed ropes on cliffs, snow, ice and firn snow slopes, as well as the independent use of crampons and ice axes in mixed terrain. On climbing passages, as well as very dangerous and exposed places, fixed ropes are attached by mountain guides and by the Sherpa team.

perm_identity  Physical fitness

A key success factor in expeditions is being in good shape. Train in the months before the expedition! Several hour climbs with a backpack and around 1000 vertical meters per day should not be a problem for you. Mental training is also advised for this very challenging expedition. We will gladly provide individual advice on how to best prepare yourself mentally and physically for an expedition!

local_hospital  Health

We recommend that each member undergoes a medical examination prior to the expedition. Good health is a prerequisite for participation. Particularly important is a visit to the dentist because previously unnoticed dental problems can become quite acute due to the sudden change in pressure conditions in higher altitudes.

landscape  Experience

We are very familiar with the charm and attraction of an eight-thousander! However, we want to make certain that you can ascend safely, come back alive, and be able to enjoy the expedition while on it and not afterwards. Therefore, in order to participate in our eight-thousander expeditions, you must already have collected some experience at high altitudes and mountaineering. When booking, please let us know which heights you have already reached and which high mountains you have climbed. If you are a newcomer, no problem, we offer a bespoke program aimed to train you for reaching your desired destination.

In order to participate in our seven-and six-thousander expeditions, you should have at least some experience on the four-thousander peaks of the Alps or other mountain ranges. Our offer for newcomers applies here as well, we can train you to become prudent and safe high altitude climbers!

We offer a special introductory weekend for all those who want to learn about – or refresh their knowledge of – all the skills and techniques needed on an expedition. More info here.

payment  Payment

Unless otherwise agreed, a deposit of 20% of the tour price is to be paid when receiving your invoice, but earliest eleven months before the end of the tour date. The balance must be paid 20 days prior to departure. Please find more information regarding payments in our GTC.

directions_run Right of Withdrawal

The traveller has the right to withdraw from the travel contract at any time by paying the according cancellation fee stated in the General Terms of Conditions of Furtenbach Adventures GmbH.

For expeditions to 7000 and 8000 meter peaks the following fees apply for cancellations on the part of the client prior to travel: until 3 months prior to departure 50%, within 3 months prior departure 100%.

The tour operator will be released from the contract if the specified minimum number of members is not achieved and if the customer has been notified about the cancellation in writing within the following periods: until 20 days prior to departure.

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