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Aconcagua Flash – Polish Direct

NEW AND EXCLUSIV ONLY WITH FURTENBACH ADVENTURES – To the Roof of South America directly via the Polish Glacier in only 14 days

 

With its 6962m Aconcagua is the highest mountain of the American continent and one of the Seven Summits.

Worldwide we are the only tour operator, to offer Flash climbs over the spectacular Polish Glacier route to the Aconcagua summit.

The way over the Polish-Glacier is the most stunning and lonesome one to the summit. It leads from the last camp at 5850m across the glacier trough ice, snow and mixed terrain in a direct line up to the summit. In order to guarantee a safe ascent and descent we’ve installed the same fixed ropes that we use on Everest. Compared to the dry gravel slopes of the normal route and polish traverse, this direct polish glacier route is much more attractive and now finally made accessible.

Climbing Aconcagua over the Direct Polish glacier route is not only a great experience, but also the perfect preparation for Mt. Everest due to the similar terrain and the fixed ropes, installed on both mountains. Furthermore, one climbs a summit over 6500m, which is a future requirement for the Everest-permit. And in addition, there’s the option to book and test the Everest oxygen system on Aconcagua summit day.

The Incas, the natives of the Andes, considered the Aconcagua as a temple. This assumption is based on findings of art pieces, religious items and even a mummy in a cave.

Relatively early, the Aconcagua became also relevant in mountaineering: In 1882 the first expedition to the so called “Roof of America” was launched and until today, the Aconcagua is a popular target for mountaineers and adventurers from all over the world. Especially its relative technical simplicity paired with its high altitude of almost 7000 m, makes the Aconcagua a perfect preparation for the easier 8000ers of the Himalaya.

It is quite busy at the Roof of America. But for those who can refrain from its well-trodden paths and wander its thoughts over the unending expanses of the Andes, the Aconcagua hasn’t lost much of its appeal and beauty that must have already compelled the Incas. And where to enjoy this better than on the lonesome Polish direct route?

To raise the summit chances, we begin with the acclimatization process via hypoxic tents at home, 4 weeks prior to our actual departure to Argentina. Those tents are going to be used by each climber under supervision of our experts. The expedition members body will slowly be acclimatized to a height that is equivalent to around 5000m altitude. The result is that the participants are already acclimatized when reaching the mountain, can therefore ascent faster and are muche stronger, healthier and more powerful while climbing. We have been using hypoxic tents for almost two decades and have very good experience with these means of acclimatization for high altitude mountaineering.

Adventure Factor spirited
Experience / Emotion thrilling
Fitness / Struggle workout
Risk feel free to tell your partner about it
Comfort comfy expedition style

Highlights:

  • The highest mountain of America (6962m) via direct polish glacier route
  • Individual support by our mountain guide (only 3-4 people per guide!)
  • Helicopter transportation (to/from Basecamp)
  • Pre-acclimatization in hypoxic tents
  • Travelling through the beautiful scenery of the Andean Region
  • 1 personal porter per Person
  • Option to book the Everest oxygen system for summit day

Trip dates:

Booking code:-
Minimum members:-
Price per person: 0

Registration for the Aconcagua Flash expedition is subject to a personal consultation. Please call or write us!

Preparation:

In order to enable an expedition in such a short time frame, appropriate preparation is vital. The preparation starts with an individual consultation, where goals and training topics are defined. Every participant must have comprehensive mountain experience in high altitudes. Fitness and mental resilience must be trained intensively during the months prior to the expedition. Furthermore, we emphasize the importance of careful acclimatization. This will take place at the participants home via hypoxic tents: every participant will receive an individual training schedule and will be acclimatized in 4 weeks prior to the expedition. Thus we can waive the majority of the acclimatisation tours on the mountain.   As a result the total duration of the expedition can be limited. If you have any questions, read our FAQs or contact us directly.

The exact schedule of the expedition depends on the weather conditions. In addition, please keep in mind that we are in a very remote and politically sensitive area in a nationalpark where our freedom of movement may be limited at any time due to governmental or environmental restrictions.

The following schedule is planned:

 

 

Day 1: Mendoza (760m).
Arrival at the Airport in Mendoza and transfer to the hotel. Get together with the mountain guide and other participants, mutual briefing of the exact itinerary of the upcoming days in a cosy atmosphere.

Day 2: Mendoza – Penitentes (2725m).
Transfer from Mendoza to Penitentes in private Shuttles, 2-3h. Last preparations for our climb (as for example collection of the permit). Dinner and overnight in Penitentes (flight to the basecamp this day if the conditions are good)

Day 3: Penitentes – Basecamp Plaza Argentina (4200m).
Transfer to the entrance of the Horcones Valley Park and helicopter flight to the Basecamp Plaza Argentina (if not already yesterday).

Day 4: Basecamp Plaza Argentina- Camp 1 (4877m).
Today we are off! Ascent to Camp 1 (4877m) through a stunning landscape following the 360° route. After arriving we enjoy the rest of the day in the first high camp.

Day 5: acclimatisation day Camp 1 – Col (5300m)
Hiking to mountain Col (5300m)

Day 6:  Camp 1- Camp 2 Guanacos (5456m).
Ascent from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5456m). We will settle in Camp 2 – sourrounded by stunning scenery.

Day 7: Spare day for bad weather or for relaxation at Camp 2 to charge our batteries for the following days.

Day 8: Restday
Spare day for bad weather or acclimatisation at Camp 2 to start on the next day with much more power.

Day 9: Camp 2 Guanacos – Camp 3 (Polish Glacier) 5850m
Ascent to the beginning of the polish glacier to Camp 3

Day 10: Camp 3 – SUMMIT (6962) – Camp 2 Guanacos
Today we want to climb the summit. We have to get up very early and start our direct way crossing the polish glacier to the highest point of South America. The way includes snow, ice flanks up to 50° and an exciting rock chimney to climb, so variety is guaranteed. While Walking up we have a fantastic view. The last meters, we walk on a ridge and will meet the mountaineers, who did the ascent on the normal route. From the summit you will enjoy the view with the Andes, deserts and sometimes you can even see the pacific ocean too. After these stunning moments we descend on the normal route down to camp 2.

Day 11: Camp 2 – Basecamp
Today we will do a rapid descent to basecamp.

Day 12: Basecamp – Penitentes – Mendoza
When the weather is good, we want to fly out by a helicopter. While doing so, we have the possibility to enjoy the fantastic view on Aconcagua for the last time. After the flight, we ride back to Mendoza in a van. Once arrived, we can relax and celebrate our successful expedition together.

Day 13: Spare day for bad weather.
If you have changeable flights, it is possible to leave today, if a spare day is not needed.

Day 14: Adiós Argentina! Individual flight back home or to an ongoing Destination.

 

check_circle_outline  Included:

  • Organisation of the expedition
  • High altitude generator and tent for 4 weeks prior to the expedition
  • certified mountain guide
  • Helicopter transfer from the entrance of Horcones Valley Park – Basecamp – entrance (depending on weather and other conditions)
  • 2 nights in upscale hotel in Mendoza with breakfast (single room optional)
  • 1 night in Penitentes with breakfast and dinner
  • Equipment at the basecamps (sleeping and dining tents, etc.)
  • High camp equipment (tents, stove, cooking gear, gas, meals)
  • All transfers (jeep / private shuttle)
  • Fullboard while at basecamp and high camps
  • Entrance fee for the Aconcagua Provincial Park
  • Permit for the climb of Aconcagua
  • Private Transfers as stated in the itinerary
  • Porter (1 porter/person)
  • Mules from Penitentes to basecamp and back (25kg personal gear / member)
  • Satellite communication, radios and solar charging (according to availability)
  • Medical emergency oxygen
  • Emergency medicine, pulseoxymeter
  • Security and warranty of an Austrian tour operator

 

help_outline  Optional:

  • The included accommodations are double or triple occupancy (depending on availability). Single rooms and tents are available upon request.
  •  oxygen for the summit day (4x bottles of oxygen, mask, modulator, lending system) € 2800

 

highlight_off  Not included:

  • International Airfare (ask for an offer)
  • Personal insurance
  • Shipping costs for high altitude generator and tent outside of the EU
  • Personal medicine
  • Meals and drinks not mentioned
    Tips
  • Additional helicopter flights
  • Additional porters for personal gear
  • Personal climbing gear
  • Sleeping bag
  • All not specifically mentioned included services as well as costs that occur due to

 

Why Flash?

One of the main reasons for a failed climb of a high summit is the long acclimatization time at the mountain. The repeated ascents and descents, the threat of catching an infection at the base camp, where many people must live in a very crowded space, robs many climbers the energy even before the actual climb has started.

To raise the chances of success, we begin with the acclimatization process via hypoxic tents at the participants’ home, 6-8 weeks prior to our actual departure to Nepal. Those tents are going to be set up by our experts and under their supervision, the expedition members body will slowly be acclimatized to a height that is equivalent to around 7000m. Furtenbach Adventures is using hypoxic tents since almost two decades and we have a long experience with the means of acclimatization for high altitude mountaineering.

In 2016, our team was the first successful Everest expedition, where all participants where pre-acclimatized with hypoxic tents. This decreased the time we had to acclimatize at the mountain significantly, before we could start our ascent to the summit. After reaching the summit, we were also the only team that was able to descend in one go to Camp 2. This higher performance capacity contributes largely to the safety aspect, thanks to proper pre-acclimatization.

 

These special preparations, combined with small groupsbest oxygen-support, the latest equipment, an experienced team  and our vast organizational experiences allow a total expedition duration of only 14 days.

Since decades, the fundamental techniques, equipment, high-altitude medicine and weather forecasts have been developed over time. The climbing tactics however have remained the same as they were in the 1970s. We are about to change that by providing a modern climbing alternative which meets the current state of the art and respects the general principles of safety.

As oxygen system, we rely on Summit Oxygen, the latest, lightest and most reliable of all systems on the market. Our members will receive special regulators that have been customized for us and are able to deliver more oxygen than common regulators. An oxygen flow rate of up to 8 liters / minute is possible.

 

info  General Infos

Tour operator for this trip: Furtenbach Adventures.

An expedition to high altitudes still presents an enormous challenge despite modern equipment and tactics. Besides technical and fitness requirements, the high altitude still poses the largest hurdle. That is why we place great emphasis on prudent, slow acclimatization and recommend the possibility of pre-acclimatization in a high altitude tent at home (see also FAQ).

Weather and conditions on the mountain can lead to program or route changes. Participation in the expedition lies in your own individual responsibility. Furtenbach Adventures assumes no liability for accidents, damages or loss of materials.

If you are not sure whether taking part in an expedition is the right thing for you, feel free to contact Lukas Furtenbach at Tel +43 512 204134 or per email [email protected] for an answer to this question during a personal interview!

This package in general is not suitable for persons with reduced mobility.

 

https  Insurance

We strongly recommend taking out a travel insurance (including trip cancellation, interruption, medical and luggage insurance) For this journey, the Global Rescue Signature Travel Insurance is suitable. The price of the insurance depends on the trip and the personal data of the traveller. We happily make you an offer after booking or upon request.

To cover search and rescue costs in the mountains, we ask our expedition participants to take out a “medical only”-membership at Global Rescue. This membership can be concluded here before departure: https://ss.globalrescue.com/partner/furtenbach/. Further information are provided after your booking.

language  Entry Requirements

Passport and Visa Requirements

Swiss or EU citizens:

Argentina: When entering the country, you need a passport with a validity of at least 3 or more months. Visa is only required if your travel is not only tourism purpose or if you plan to stay for more than 3 months.

Information on recommended vaccines and health regulations:
http://www.who.int/ith/en/

More detailed information regarding entry, visa and health requirements for this travel destination will be provided once you’ve communicated your nationality.

 

work  Equipment

You need to bring your own personal equipment such as down clothing, expedition shoes, an isolated sleeping mat and a sleeping bag with a comfort range of – 20 to -25 degrees celsius. Following your booking we will send you a detailed equipment list. We will be happy to advise you personally during the selection and purchase of required equipment. With years of expedition experience, we know what has proved its worth and what not.

 

insert_chart_outlined  Difficulty/ Technique

The ascent always lies in the participant‘s personal responsibility, while led by the mountain guide and expedition leader. Participants must be able to move safely and independently in mixed terrain (rock, snow, ice) and – if required – independently build rope teams under the guidance of the mountain guide. Cooperation, camaraderie and support on the mountain increases the chances of success for all. The guide is there to provide guidance for the whole group, the possibilities for him to respond to individual needs is limited. It is imperative that participants adhere to the instructions and decisions made by the mountain guide. Regardless, each participant must know their own physical limits, and be able to make a timely decision to turn back.

 

perm_identity  Physical Fitness

A key success factor in expeditions is being in good shape. Train in the months before the expedition! Several hour climbs with a backpack and around 1000 meters per day should not be a problem for you. We will gladly provide individual advice on how to best prepare yourself mentally and physically for an expedition!

 

local_hospital  Health

We recommend that each participant undergoes a medical examination prior to the expedition. Good health is a prerequisite for participation. Particularly important is a visit to the dentist because previously unnoticed dental problems can become quite acute due to the sudden change in pressure conditions in higher altitudes.

 

check_box Experience

We are very familiar with the charm and attraction of a high mountain! However, we want to make certain that you can ascend safely, come back alive, and be able to enjoy the expedition while on it and not afterwards. Therefore, in order to participate in one of our Seven Summit expeditions, you must already have collected some experience at high altitudes and mountaineering. When booking, please let us know which heights you have already reached and which high mountains you have climbed. If you are a newcomer, no problem, we offer a bespoke program aimed to train you for reaching your desired destination.

We offer a special introductory weekend for all those who want to learn about – or refresh their knowledge of – all the skills and techniques needed on an expedition. More info here.

 

payment  Payment

Deposit Payment is made less than eleven months prior to the end of the trip and is a maximum of 20% of the price. The balance must be paid no earlier than 20 days prior to departure. Please find more information regarding the payment in our GTC.

directions_run Right of withdrawal

The traveller has the right to withdraw from the travel contract at any time by paying the according cancellation fee stated in the General Terms of Conditions of Furtenbach Adventures GmbH.

The following fees apply for cancellations on the part of the client prior to travel:

until 30 days prior to departure…………………………. 30%
29 – 20 days prior to departure…………………….. 40%
19 -10 days prior to departure…………………….. 70%
9 – 4 days prior to departure………………………… 80%
from the 3rd day prior to departure (72 hours)………100%
on the day of departure………………………………… 100% of the tour fee.

The tour operator will be released from the contract if the specified minimum number of participants is not achieved and if the customer has been notified about the cancellation in writing within the following periods: until 20 days prior to departure.