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Mount Everest North

“What we get from this adventure is just sheer joy. And joy is, after all, the end of life. We do not live to eat and make money. We eat and make money to be able to live. That is what life means and what life is for.”

– George Mallory about his planned attempt to climb Everest

So much has already been written and continues to be written about it. Good and bad, fascinating, off-putting, captivating, strange, tragic and intriguing. Whatever your personal opinion, Everest is and will always remain the mother of all mountains. Its chronicle of ascents is unmatched in terms of drama, insanity and heroics. It is the playground of the elite alpinists of our time, and also the most dreamed-of mountain for so many climbers from all over the world. It is 8,848 meters of pure magnetism. It’s not just a mountain. Everest is a legend.

Furtenbach Adventures is the first independent European tour operator to offer Mount Everest ascents from both the north and the south at the same time. We offer the highest possible safety and quality standards and the reassurance for our clients that they are entrusting themselves to a licensed, strictly assessed Austrian expedition organizer.


About Furtenbach Adventures Everest Expeditions

We run a unique style of Everest expedition with maximum oxygen and Sherpa support to achieve the highest level of safety and highest chances of success. The exclusive nature of Furtenbach Adventures makes our expeditions stand out from the rest – maybe even a bit better.

  • Shorter expedition duration with hypoxic pre-acclimatization
  • We benefit from 20 years of experience in organizing expeditions to eight-thousand-meter peaks in the Himalaya and Karakoram mountain ranges.
  • We employ experienced, state-certified (IFMGA/AMGA) mountain guides, together with a team of proven Everest Sherpas.
  • Our climbing Sherpas have summitted Everest several times over and are highly skilled at knowing exactly how they can best support our climbers during their summit attempt.
  • In contrast to many other tour operators, we provide the most advanced, most reliable and easiest oxygen system available on the market, from Summit Oxygen.
  • We provide a minimum of 8 oxygen bottles to each of our climbers – more than any other operator. This means our clients can breathe at a higher flow rate while climbing and can sleep using oxygen from Camp 2 (North Col), thereby conserving energy.
  • Our climbers are better acclimatized by the time they arrive because they have already started their acclimatization process at home, 4 weeks prior to the start of the expedition. All high-altitude generator equipment is delivered to your home and collected when training is completed and includes a training plan and expert supervision. We take care of everything.
  • We provide one of the most comfortable base camp facilities ever to be seen on Everest.
  • The food that our kitchen teams produce is outstanding, turned out from a base camp kitchen on a glacial moraine at the ends of the Earth.

But finally, we give you the Furtenbach Adventures promise of quality:

More Sherpa support, more oxygen and more comfort than any other operator. This leads to better recovery, more safety and, ultimately, to higher chances of success. The overall expedition duration can be shortened through pre-acclimatization at home.

See also our Everest Flash Expedition (Everest in only 4 weeks) or our Classic Everest South Expedition

Watch 360° films of Everest South route

Everest blogger Alan Arnette interviews Lukas Furtenbach

 

Adventure Factor brave
Experience / Emotion lifechanging
Fitness / Struggle challenging
Risk the height
Comfort luxury basecamp

Highlights:

  • 1:1 client to Sherpa ratio on summit day
  • Minimum 8 bottles of oxygen per client
  • IFMGA/ AMGA mountain guide
  • Small group size for increased safety and higher success rate
  • 100% success rate 2017
  • 100% success rate 2018
  • 100% success rate 2019
  • Hypoxic tent for pre-acclimatization at home
  • Shorter expedition duration due to pre-acclimatization
  • All drinks included (softdrinks & alcoholic beverages)

Trip dates:

Booking code:-
Minimum members:-
Price per person: 0

The exact itinerary on Mount Everest is subject to changes in official regulations, weather and snow conditions, as well as the progress of line fixing along the route. The actual itinerary may differ. Schedules of other groups are also taken into account in order to avoid any potential bottlenecks.

In addition to the basic framework which we provide, such as oxygen, Sherpa support, base camp set-up, route selection, high camp set-up etc., a successful ascent also involves a great deal of luck, good weather, and good physical and mental strength on the part of the climbers.

We allow for maximum flexibility so that the expedition can be extended should circumstances require it, as long as participants wish to do so and are prepared to bear any additional costs incurred.

The following schedule is planned:

 

Day 1 - 9: Journey to basecamp

Day 1: Arrival and get-together at hotel in Kathmandu
Meet and greet the other climbers while enjoying a beer in the hotel gardens. A great adventure awaits us, and our journey is soon to begin. You can feel the anticipation.

Days 2-3: Free days in Kathmandu
Those who are not yet familiar with Kathmandu will fall in love with it. Relax in the comfortable hotel, shop and people-watch in Thamel, enjoy the cultural programme, or simply soak up the atmosphere. It’s up to you.

Day 4: Flight to Lhasa, capital of Tibet – probably one of the most stunning mountain flights in the world. You might even catch a glimpse of Everest.  The rest of the day free to explore Lhasa’s old town or enjoy a traditional Tibetan dinner.

Day 5: Sightseeing in Lhasa
There is still plenty of time today to visit the former residence of the Dalai Lama and the city’s countless monasteries and temples, some of which have been declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites, or to watch Tibetans go about their daily lives while sipping a bowl of butter tea.

Day 6: Lhasa – Shigatse (3,800m)
Today we leave Lhasa, driving south towards Shigatse, the second largest city in Tibet, taking in the stark beauty of the Tibetan Plateau – worth the trip alone.

Day 7: Transfer to Tingri at 4,300m. The accommodation is very simple again, but the food continues to be very good!

Day 8: A rest day for everyone in order to acclimatize. Plenty of beautiful 5000-meter hills to hike. The landscape is even more barren here, which makes you wonder at the shepherds with their sheep.

Day 9: Transfer to Everest Base Camp (driver’s camp) at 5,200m.

Day 10 - 38: Acclimatization and ascent

Days 10-12: acclimatization in and around base camp.

Day 13: Ascent to middle camp at 6,200m on the way to Advanced Base Camp (ABC).

Day 14: Arrive at ABC at 6,400m. This is where you’ll feel the benefits of pre-acclimatization in hypoxic tents at home.

Days 15-38: Acclimatization and Ascent
Thorough acclimatization, with a climb to approximately 7,500m. Our Sherpa team will set up three high camps at 7,000m (North Col), 7,800m and 8,300m. The actual ascent of Mount Everest is scheduled to occur between the 15th and 26th of May, which is the period during which most of the successful summit days have taken place to date. Then we wait for a weather window for our first summit attempt. After the steep glacier climb to the North Col we stay at Camp 1, follow the less demanding North Ridge which leads us to the Northeast ridge, where we stay at Camp2 at about 7,800m, and then Camp3 at 8,300m. From here we cross below the Northeast Ridge to the Northwest Face and then back to the ridge with the secured 1st, 2nd and 3rd steps (all secured by rope) and finally we tackle the summit face.  onwards, oxygen is available. At Camps 3 and 4, we will also sleep with oxygen. There is plenty of time for a few days of rest and a second attempt at the summit.

Day 39 - 42: Return journey

Day 39: Return trip ABC – BC

Days 40-41: Transfer back to Kathmandu with probable one-night stay half way.

Day 42: Flight home.

check_circle_outline  What the price includes:

  • All organisation for the expedition
  • International Flight to Kathmandu (economy – business on request)
  • State certified (IFMGA/AMGA) English speaking mountain guide during the whole expedition
  • 4 nights in an upscale hotel in Kathmandu in a double room (surcharge for a single room)
  • All transfer
  • Helicopter flight Kathmandu – Syangpoche
  • Flight Lukla – Kathmandu
  • Full board for the duration of the whole trip (in Kathmandu only breakfast)
  • All drinks included (softdrinks & alcoholic beverages)
  • Double rooms on stop-overs during our trip to the mountain
  • Baggage transport to the base camp and back (40kg per baggage piece per participant)
  • 1 tent per participant at the base camp
  • 1 tent per two participants during the approach and for the high camp
  • A mat for the approach and the base camp
  • High camp equipment (tents, cooker, gas, dishes, food)
  • All the fixing material for the route
  • Use of the fixed ropes along the route
  • „Icefall Doctos“ fee for using the icefall route
  • Transport of waste back from the base camp
  • High altitude porters and climbing Sherpa (1:1 Sherpa client ratio on the summit day)
  • Oxygen package provided by Summit Oxygen with a rental mask & regulator and 8 bottles per participant
  • High altitude generator and tent for 4 weeks prior to the expedition
  • Insurance and equipment for the Nepalese staff
  • Emergency oxygen
  • Pharmaceutical travel kit, high altitude emergency medicine, pulsoxymeter
  • Kitchen crew
  • A comfortable, heated common tent, shower tent, etc. at the base camp
  • Satellite communication (WIFI, laptop, solar battery charger)
  • Radio transmitter for each participant
  • All fees & permits
  • Weather reports
  • Security and warranty of an Austrian tour operator

 

help_outline Optional:

  • Single room surcharge € 500

 

highlight_off  What the price does not include:

  • Lunches and non-group dinners in Kathmandu
  • Excess baggage fees on included flights
  • Personal insurance
  • Visa for Nepal (available at the airport, multiple entry 100 days USD 100, bring a passport photo!)
  • Personal medications
  • Tips
  • Personal mountain and climbing equipment
  • Sleeping bag for base camp and high camp
  • Charges for satellite phone use, emails
  • Summit bonus for personal climbing Sherpas

 

Which Everest route should I choose?

The two “normal ascents” on Mount Everest each offer certain advantages, but also pose their own risks and challenges.

Ultimately it should be a well-informed decision on the part of aspirants whether to climb from Tibet in the north via the North Col and Northeast ridge, or from Nepal in the south over the Khumbu Icefall, Lhotse face and the Southeast ridge.

In many cases, a decision in favour of one or the other side will be a result of several factors including the experience of the participant, his personality, and his exact plan for ascent, Perhaps one side is more appealing to you, it exerts more attraction or catches your eye with a beautiful line. Listen to your intuition, which usually provides the best advice in such cases, or seek personal advice from us!

 

North

+ objectively the safer ascent route
+ the last camp is higher (8300m) resulting in a shorter summit stage
+ more comfortable and luxurious basecamp due to road access

– longer exposure to wind and cold during ascent
– technically more challenging during the last third, more cliffs
– descending from the summit is more difficult

South

+ technically the easier and longer ascent, sheltered from the wind
+ lower altitude base camp, resulting in better regeneration

– ice fall and avalanche hazard at the Khumbu icefall and the Lhotse slope
– last camp is at 8000m, resulting in a longer, more strenuous summit day
– Overall ascent from the base camp is somewhat longer and requires more stamina

 

info  General information

Tour operator for this trip: Furtenbach Adventures.

Despite modern equipment and tactics, high-altitude expeditions still present an enormous challenge. Aside from technical and fitness requirements, it is the altitude itself that presents the largest obstacle. For our Everest Flash Expedition, we use pre-acclimatization in a hypoxic tent at home. It is essential that Everest Flash climbers adhere strictly to the training and acclimatization programme (see our FAQs). 

Weather and conditions on the mountain can lead to itinerary and/or route changes. Climbers take part in the expedition at their own risk and individual responsibility. Furtenbach Adventures assumes no liability for accidents, damages or loss of materials.

If you are not sure that taking part in an expedition like this is the right thing for you, feel free to contact Lukas Furtenbach on Tel +43 512 204134 or e-mail lukas@furtenbachadventures.com for a personal consultation.

This package in general is not suitable for persons with reduced mobility.

 

language   Entry Requirements

Passport and Visa Regulations

Swiss or EU citizens:

Nepal
When entering the country, you must have a minimum of 6 months validity left on your passport and a visa (available at the airport upon arrival, depending on the duration of your stay from 25 to 100 USD – bring a passport photo)

China
Once arrived in Kathmandu, we’ll apply for a group visa for Tibet. Necessary documents will be collected by Furtenbach Adventures in advance. The application process might take some days. Costs for the Chinese visa are included in the trip price.

Information on recommended vaccines and health regulations: http://www.who.int/ith/en/

More detailed information regarding entry, visa and health requirements for this travel destination will be provided once you’ve communicated your nationality.

 

https   Insurance possibilities

We strongly recommend taking out a travel insurance (including trip cancellation, interruption, medical and luggage insurance) For this journey, the Global Rescue Signature Travel Insurance is suitable. The price of the insurance depends on the trip and the personal data of the traveller. We happily make you an offer after booking or upon request.

To cover search and rescue costs in the mountains, we ask our expedition participants to take out a “medical only”-membership at Global Rescue. This membership can be concluded here before departure: https://ss.globalrescue.com/partner/furtenbach/. Further information are provided after your booking.

 

work  Equipment

Unless specified otherwise in the detailed program, all high camp equipment will be provided by us. You need to bring your own personal equipment such as down clothing, expedition shoes, an isolated sleeping mat and a sleeping bag with a comfort range of – 20 to -25 degrees Celsius for the high camp. Following your booking we will send you a detailed equipment list. We will be happy to advise you personally during the selection and purchase of required equipment. With years of expedition experience, we know what has proved its worth and what not.

 

insert_chart_outlined   Difficulty / Technique

The ascent always lies in the participant‘s personal responsibility, while led by the mountain guide and expedition leader. Participants must be able to move safely and independently in mixed terrain (rock, snow, ice) and – if required – independently build rope teams under the guidance of the mountain guide. Cooperation, camaraderie and support on the mountain increases the chances of success for all. The guide is there to provide guidance for the whole group, the possibilities for him to respond to individual needs is limited. It is imperative that participants adhere to the instructions and decisions made by the mountain guide. Regardless, each participant must know their own physical limits, and be able to make a timely decision to turn back.

For expeditions offered by us, unless otherwise specified in the detailed program, the following is required of participants: independent getting on and off the fixed ropes on cliffs, snow, ice and firn snow slopes, as well as the independent use of crampons and ice axes in mixed terrain. On climbing passages, as well as very dangerous and exposed places, fixed ropes are attached by mountain guides and by the Sherpa team.

 

perm_identity   Physical fitness

A key success factor in expeditions is being in good shape. Train in the months before the expedition! Several hour climbs with a backpack and around 1000 meters per day should not be a problem for you. You have to carry your own personal equipment on the mountain, unless an optional personal Sherpa is booked. The porters are available for the group and set up the high camp and insure the route. We will gladly provide individual advice on how to best prepare yourself mentally and physically for an expedition!

 

local_hospital  Health

We recommend that each participant undergoes a medical examination prior to the expedition. Good health is a prerequisite for participation. Particularly important is a visit to the dentist because previously unnoticed dental problems can become quite acute due to the sudden change in pressure conditions in higher altitudes.

 

landscape  Experience

We are very familiar with the charm and attraction of an eight-thousander! However, we want to make certain that you can ascend safely, come back alive, and be able to enjoy the expedition while on it and not afterwards. Therefore, in order to participate in our eight-thousander expeditions, you must already have collected some experience at high altitudes and mountaineering. When booking, please let us know which heights you have already reached and which high mountains you have climbed. If you are a newcomer, no problem, we offer a bespoke program aimed to train you for reaching your desired destination.

In order to participate in our seven-and six-thousander expeditions, you should have at least some experience on the four-thousander peaks of the Alps or other mountain ranges. Our offer for newcomers applies here as well, we can train you to become prudent and safe high altitude climbers!

We offer a special introductory weekend for all those who want to learn about – or refresh their knowledge of – all the skills and techniques needed on an expedition. More info here.

 

payment  Payment

Deposit Payment is made less than eleven months prior to the end of the trip and is a maximum of 20% of the price. The balance must be paid no earlier than 20 days prior to departure. Please find more information regarding the payment in our GTC.

 

directions_run  Right of withdrawal

The traveller has the right to withdraw from the travel contract at any time by paying the according cancellation fee stated in the General Terms of Conditions of Furtenbach Adventures GmbH (https://www.furtenbachadventures.com/en/service/gtc/, item II. 7.).

For expeditions to 7000 and 8000 meter peaks the following fees apply for cancellations on the part of the client prior to travel: until 3 months prior to departure 50%, within 3 months prior departure 100%.

The tour operator will be released from the contract if the specified minimum number of participants is not achieved and if the customer has been notified about the cancellation in writing within the following periods: until 20 days prior to departure.