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Mount Everest North

“What we get from this adventure is just sheer joy. And joy is, after all, the end of life. We do not live to eat and make money. We eat and make money to be able to live. That is what life means and what life is for.”

– George Mallory about his planned attempt to climb Everest

So much has already been written and continues to be written about it. Good and bad, fascinating, off-putting, captivating, strange, tragic and intriguing. Whatever your personal opinion, Everest is and will always remain the mother of all mountains. Its chronicle of ascents is unmatched in terms of drama, insanity and heroics. It is the playground of the elite alpinists of our time, and also the most dreamed-of mountain for so many climbers from all over the world. It is 8,848 meters of pure magnetism. It’s not just a mountain. Everest is a legend.

Furtenbach Adventures is the first western operator to run Mount Everest expeditions from both the north and the south at the same time. We offer the highest possible safety and quality standards and the reassurance for our clients that they are entrusting themselves to a licensed, strictly assessed Austrian expedition organizer.


About Furtenbach Adventures Everest Expeditions

We run a unique style of Everest expedition with maximum oxygen and Sherpa support to achieve the highest level of safety and highest chances of success. The exclusive nature of Furtenbach Adventures makes our expeditions stand out from the rest – maybe even a bit better.

  • Shorter expedition duration with hypoxic pre-acclimatization
  • We benefit from 20 years of experience in organizing expeditions to eight-thousand-meter peaks in the Himalaya and Karakoram mountain ranges.
  • We employ experienced, state-certified (IFMGA/AMGA) mountain guides, together with a team of proven Everest Sherpas.
  • Our climbing Sherpas have summitted Everest several times over and are highly skilled at knowing exactly how they can best support our climbers during their summit attempt.
  • In contrast to many other tour operators, we provide the most advanced, most reliable and easiest oxygen system available on the market, from Summit Oxygen.
  • We provide a minimum of 8 oxygen bottles to each of our climbers – more than any other operator. This means our clients can breathe at a higher flow rate while climbing and can sleep using oxygen from Camp 2 (North Col), thereby conserving energy.
  • Our climbers are better acclimatized by the time they arrive because they have already started their acclimatization process at home, 4 weeks prior to the start of the expedition. All high-altitude generator equipment is delivered to your home and collected when training is completed and includes a training plan and expert supervision. We take care of everything.
  • We provide one of the most comfortable base camp facilities ever to be seen on Everest.
  • The food that our kitchen teams produce is outstanding, turned out from a base camp kitchen on a glacial moraine at the ends of the Earth.

But finally, we give you the Furtenbach Adventures promise of quality:

More Sherpa support, more oxygen and more comfort than any other operator. This leads to better recovery, more safety and, ultimately, to higher chances of success. The overall expedition duration can be shortened through pre-acclimatization at home.

See also our Everest Flash Expedition (Everest in only 4 weeks) or our Classic Everest South Expedition

Watch 360° films of Everest South route

Everest blogger Alan Arnette interviews Lukas Furtenbach

 

Adventure Factor brave
Experience / Emotion lifechanging
Fitness / Struggle challenging
Risk the height
Comfort luxury basecamp

Highlights:

  • 1:1 client to Sherpa ratio on summit day
  • Minimum 8 bottles of oxygen per client
  • IFMGA/ AMGA mountain guide
  • Small group size for increased safety and higher success rate
  • 100% success rate 2017
  • 100% success rate 2018
  • 100% success rate 2019
  • Hypoxic tent for pre-acclimatization at home
  • Shorter expedition duration due to pre-acclimatization
  • All drinks included (softdrinks & alcoholic beverages)

Trip dates:

Booking code:-
Minimum members:-
Price per person: 0

The exact itinerary on Mount Everest is subject to changes in official regulations, weather and snow conditions, as well as the progress of line fixing along the route. The actual itinerary may differ. Schedules of other groups are also taken into account in order to avoid any potential bottlenecks.

In addition to the basic framework which we provide, such as oxygen, Sherpa support, base camp set-up, route selection, high camp set-up etc., a successful ascent also involves a great deal of luck, good weather, and good physical and mental strength on the part of the climbers.

We allow for maximum flexibility so that the expedition can be extended should circumstances require it, as long as participants wish to do so and are prepared to bear any additional costs incurred.

The following schedule is planned:

 

Day 1 - 9: Journey to basecamp

Day 1: Arrival and get-together at hotel in Kathmandu
Meet and greet the other climbers while enjoying a beer in the hotel gardens. A great adventure awaits us, and our journey is soon to begin. You can feel the anticipation.

Days 2-3: Free days in Kathmandu
Those who are not yet familiar with Kathmandu will fall in love with it. Relax in the comfortable hotel, shop and people-watch in Thamel, enjoy the cultural programme, or simply soak up the atmosphere. It’s up to you.

Day 4: Flight to Lhasa, capital of Tibet – probably one of the most stunning mountain flights in the world. You might even catch a glimpse of Everest.  The rest of the day free to explore Lhasa’s old town or enjoy a traditional Tibetan dinner.

Day 5: Sightseeing in Lhasa
There is still plenty of time today to visit the former residence of the Dalai Lama and the city’s countless monasteries and temples, some of which have been declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites, or to watch Tibetans go about their daily lives while sipping a bowl of butter tea.

Day 6: Lhasa – Shigatse (3,800m)
Today we leave Lhasa, driving south towards Shigatse, the second largest city in Tibet, taking in the stark beauty of the Tibetan Plateau – worth the trip alone.

Day 7: Transfer to Tingri at 4,300m. The accommodation is very simple again, but the food continues to be very good!

Day 8: A rest day for everyone in order to acclimatize. Plenty of beautiful 5000-meter hills to hike. The landscape is even more barren here, which makes you wonder at the shepherds with their sheep.

Day 9: Transfer to Everest Base Camp (driver’s camp) at 5,200m.

Day 10 - 38: Acclimatization and ascent

Days 10-12: acclimatization in and around base camp.

Day 13: Ascent to middle camp at 6,200m on the way to Advanced Base Camp (ABC).

Day 14: Arrive at ABC at 6,400m. This is where you’ll feel the benefits of pre-acclimatization in hypoxic tents at home.

Days 15-38: Acclimatization and Ascent
Thorough acclimatization, with a climb to approximately 7,500m. Our Sherpa team will set up three high camps at 7,000m (North Col), 7,800m and 8,300m. The actual ascent of Mount Everest is scheduled to occur between the 15th and 26th of May, which is the period during which most of the successful summit days have taken place to date. Then we wait for a weather window for our first summit attempt. After the steep glacier climb to the North Col we stay at Camp 1, follow the less demanding North Ridge which leads us to the Northeast ridge, where we stay at Camp2 at about 7,800m, and then Camp3 at 8,300m. From here we cross below the Northeast Ridge to the Northwest Face and then back to the ridge with the secured 1st, 2nd and 3rd steps (all secured by rope) and finally we tackle the summit face.  onwards, oxygen is available. At Camps 3 and 4, we will also sleep with oxygen. There is plenty of time for a few days of rest and a second attempt at the summit.

Day 39 - 42: Return journey

Day 39: Return trip ABC – BC

Days 40-41: Transfer back to Kathmandu with probable one-night stay half way.

Day 42: Flight home.

check_circle_outline  What the price includes:

  • All expedition organization costs
  • IFMGA/AMGA mountain guide
  • 4 nights in an upscale hotel in Kathmandu in a twin room (single room supplement)
  • All transfers including transport from Kathmandu – Everest BC – Kathmandu (flights, all-terrain vehicles)
  • Customs clearance at the Chinese (Tibetan) border
  • Full board for the duration of the trip (except in Kathmandu — breakfast  only)
  • All drinks included (softdrinks & alcoholic beverages)
  • Twin room for stop-overs on way to base camp
  • Baggage transport to base camp and back (max 40kg baggage per person)
  • 1 two-roomed tent with bed at base camp per person
  • 1 tent with sleeping mat per person at advanced base camp (ABC)
  • 1 tent per 2 persons at high camps
  • High camp equipment (tents, cooker, gas, crockery, food)
  • All safety equipment for the route
  • Use of fixed ropes along the route
  • Waste transport away from base camp
  • High altitude porters and climbing Sherpas (1:1 Sherpa-client ratio on summit day)
  • Summit Oxygen package with mask & regulator and 8 O2 bottles per climber
  • Hypoxic tent and generator for up to 4 weeks prior to expedition
  • Insurance and equipment for Nepalese staff
  • Emergency medical oxygen
  • First aid kit, high altitude emergency medicine, pulsoxymeter
  • Kitchen crew
  • Cozy, heated group tent at base camp and ABC
  • Equipment for a comfortable stay at base camp (shower tent, toilet tent, dining tent, etc.)
  • Satellite communications (WIFI, laptop, solar battery charger)
  • Two-way radio for each climber
  • All summit fees & permits
  • Weather updates
  • Safety and assurance of an Austrian tour operator

help_outline Optional:

  • Single room surcharge € 500

highlight_off  What the price does not include:

  • International Economy Flight to/from Kathmandu (We’ll gladly make you an offer)
  • Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu
  • Excess baggage fees on included flights
  • Personal insurance
  • Visa for Nepal (available at the airport, multiple entry 90 days USD 125, bring a passport photo!)
  • Personal medications
  • Tips
  • Personal mountain and climbing equipment
  • Sleeping bag for base camp and high camp
  • Charges for satellite phone use, emails
  • Summit bonus for personal climbing Sherpas

Which Everest route should I choose?

The two “normal ascents” on Mount Everest each offer certain advantages, but also pose their own risks and challenges.

Ultimately it should be a well-informed decision on the part of aspirants whether to climb from Tibet in the north via the North Col and Northeast ridge, or from Nepal in the south over the Khumbu Icefall, Lhotse face and the Southeast ridge.

In many cases, a decision in favour of one or the other side will be a result of several factors including the experience of the participant, his personality, and his exact plan for ascent, Perhaps one side is more appealing to you, it exerts more attraction or catches your eye with a beautiful line. Listen to your intuition, which usually provides the best advice in such cases, or seek personal advice from us!

North

+ objectively the safer ascent route
+ the last camp is higher (8300m) resulting in a shorter summit stage
+ more comfortable and luxurious basecamp due to road access

– longer exposure to wind and cold during ascent
– technically more challenging during the last third, more cliffs
– descending from the summit is more difficult

South

+ technically the easier and longer ascent, sheltered from the wind
+ lower altitude base camp, resulting in better regeneration

– ice fall and avalanche hazard at the Khumbu icefall and the Lhotse slope
– last camp is at 8000m, resulting in a longer, more strenuous summit day
– Overall ascent from the base camp is somewhat longer and requires more stamina

Mount Everest 2018, Michael L.

In spring 2018 I had the amazing experience of climbing Mount Everest together with Furtenbach Adventures. In short – it was marvelous. Previous to the trip I have done quite a lot of research on different providers and options. And as you are probably aware, there are many in the market. In retrospective, I must say that it was just fantastic. Lukas Furtenbach and his team are doing an outstanding job. – Pre-trip organization: It was just perfectly organized. There were continuous updates that gave full transparency and clarity on progress and planning. It was just so easy to follow, and not even one moment of doubt or ambiguity. – Pre-acclimatization: The pre-acclimatization at home was definitely worth it. Especially when climbing from the north side, where you arrive in the base camp quite quickly. Nobody of the team had any problems with the altitude. We arrived in basecamp and were extremely fit and felt great! When I looked at other camps the picture was quite worse at some points – lots of suffering and illness. – Base camp: The base camp is just fantastic. The tents are great, ranging from the supreme, heated living room tent, to the cozy dining tent, shower tent, our private sleeping tents – all perfect. The food and kitchen were astonishing. The kitchen team provided excellent food (up to 7000m actually), snacks and drinks were available all the time and everywhere. Like living in a giant supermarket with a personal chef. – Climbing: We were doing 3 rounds in total which shown to be super effective. First round was to ABC (for two days), second to 7300m and third to summit and back. The approach ensured that nobody of the team felt sick at all. While the moving days were given, I was quite happy that everybody was able to walk on his on (slower or faster than the others). There was always a possibility to get accompanied by a Sherpa (or Rupert) which gave us all the feeling of safety and freedom at all times. Overall, it was astonishing. The team is absolute great, super nice, funny and helpful at all times. Rupert (our guide) did an outstanding job – an absolute dream team with the Sherpas. Feel free to contact me in case of questions.


Mount Everest 2018, Dennis M.

Dear Lukas, I would like to send you a very big THANK YOU for making my dream possible. I participated various expeditions during the last years, but I have never seen a better set-up than yours during the 2018 Everest North SIDE Expedition. What you offered was just perfect, professional and safe. I have spent more than seven weeks with your company and team. To be honest there is no single point I could complain about. The entire set-up like equipment, staff, Sherpas, guide, food, hygiene, weather forecast was the best I have seen in any expedition. Staff and Sherpas are always doing the hardest job at the mountain, but what your guys where pulling off was just amazing. The mountain and the surprises mother nature has are hard enough for the rest Furtenbach is a guarantee that things that could be under control, are under control. I always recommend your company to my friends and there would be only one operator for my next expedition, it would be Furtenbach. Thanks a lot!

Mount Everest 2018, Courtney R.

The expedition was so well organized, staffed, and executed that I won’t climb an 8000m peak with any other guide service. It’s tough for me to think about what the Furtenbach team could do better because the expedition was so well done. Most importantly, the guide and Sherpa teams were very, very experienced. I’d argue that they were the most experienced group on the mountain. I noticed right away that they tended to be a bit older, more mature, and had more summits than other teams. The lead Sherpa, Mingma, had summited 22 times and was tied for 2nd most summits ever. Our lead guide, Rupert, had not only climbed Everest solo without oxygen and without Sherpa support but also he performed a harrowing rescue of a snowblind climber 300 feet below the summit. My personal Sherpa partner Renji had 8 summits, and all the Sherpa that partnered with the members had summited before, often from both North and South sides. These are people you want to have around if something unexpected were to happen. Second, the Furtenbach team screens the other members very well. This allowed the team to move and function safely. Naturally, if there is one person on a team struggling or in trouble, then all resources should and do rush to that person to help them. Furtenbach prevents this as best they can by making sure all the members are truly qualified and prepared for the climb – with enough experience and prior summits to safely and successfully climb Everest. It’s important to them not only that they summit each year, but also that every member does so – therefore, they screen members well, and as a result, every member benefits. This is unique and rare and yet of the utmost importance. Finally, the accommodations, camps, and food were amazing. My team joked that we all came back from our Everest climb fatter because Thiren and the kitchen staff made such good food. We ate dinner at a table with armchairs and dessert every night except the 3 to 4 nights above 20,000 feet. Additionally, no one on my team had any GI or stomach issues, which speaks to the high hygiene standards of the kitchen. It’s almost inevitable that each climber will experience GI/stomach issues during an expedition, so the fact that none of us did with Furtenbach speaks volumes of their standards, staff, and quality. I highly encourage my climber friends who want to climb Everest to do so with Furtenbach. A friend who had climbed Everest twice (second time without oxygen) recommended Furtenbach. It’s the best Everest advice I ever received, and I want my friends to be safe and successful.

info  General information

Tour operator for this trip: Furtenbach Adventures.

Despite modern equipment and tactics, high-altitude expeditions still present an enormous challenge. Aside from technical and fitness requirements, it is the altitude itself that presents the largest obstacle. For our Everest Flash Expedition, we use pre-acclimatization in a hypoxic tent at home. It is essential that Everest Flash climbers adhere strictly to the training and acclimatization programme (see our FAQs). 

Weather and conditions on the mountain can lead to itinerary and/or route changes. Climbers take part in the expedition at their own risk and individual responsibility. Furtenbach Adventures assumes no liability for accidents, damages or loss of materials.

If you are not sure that taking part in an expedition like this is the right thing for you, feel free to contact Lukas Furtenbach on Tel +43 512 204134 or e-mail [email protected] for a personal consultation.

This package in general is not suitable for persons with reduced mobility.

 

language   Entry Requirements

Passport and Visa Regulations

Swiss or EU citizens:

Nepal
When entering the country, you must have a minimum of 6 months validity left on your passport and a visa (available at the airport upon arrival, depending on the duration of your stay from 25 to 100 USD – bring a passport photo)

China
Once arrived in Kathmandu, we’ll apply for a group visa for Tibet. Necessary documents will be collected by Furtenbach Adventures in advance. The application process might take some days. Costs for the Chinese visa are included in the trip price.

Information on recommended vaccines and health regulations: http://www.who.int/ith/en/

More detailed information regarding entry, visa and health requirements for this travel destination will be provided once you’ve communicated your nationality.

https   Insurance possibilities

We strongly recommend taking out a travel insurance (including trip cancellation, interruption, medical and luggage insurance) For this journey, the Global Rescue Signature Travel Insurance is suitable. The price of the insurance depends on the trip and the personal data of the traveller. We happily make you an offer after booking or upon request.

To cover search and rescue costs in the mountains, we ask our expedition participants to take out a “medical only”-membership at Global Rescue. This membership can be concluded here before departure: https://ss.globalrescue.com/partner/furtenbach/. Further information are provided after your booking.

 

work  Equipment

Unless specified otherwise in the detailed program, all high camp equipment will be provided by us. You need to bring your own personal equipment such as down clothing, expedition shoes, an isolated sleeping mat and a sleeping bag with a comfort range of – 20 to -25 degrees Celsius for the high camp. Following your booking we will send you a detailed equipment list. We will be happy to advise you personally during the selection and purchase of required equipment. With years of expedition experience, we know what has proved its worth and what not.

insert_chart_outlined   Difficulty / Technique

The ascent always lies in the participant‘s personal responsibility, while led by the mountain guide and expedition leader. Participants must be able to move safely and independently in mixed terrain (rock, snow, ice) and – if required – independently build rope teams under the guidance of the mountain guide. Cooperation, camaraderie and support on the mountain increases the chances of success for all. The guide is there to provide guidance for the whole group, the possibilities for him to respond to individual needs is limited. It is imperative that participants adhere to the instructions and decisions made by the mountain guide. Regardless, each participant must know their own physical limits, and be able to make a timely decision to turn back.

For expeditions offered by us, unless otherwise specified in the detailed program, the following is required of participants: independent getting on and off the fixed ropes on cliffs, snow, ice and firn snow slopes, as well as the independent use of crampons and ice axes in mixed terrain. On climbing passages, as well as very dangerous and exposed places, fixed ropes are attached by mountain guides and by the Sherpa team.

 

perm_identity   Physical fitness

A key success factor in expeditions is being in good shape. Train in the months before the expedition! Several hour climbs with a backpack and around 1000 meters per day should not be a problem for you. You have to carry your own personal equipment on the mountain, unless an optional personal Sherpa is booked. The porters are available for the group and set up the high camp and insure the route. We will gladly provide individual advice on how to best prepare yourself mentally and physically for an expedition!

local_hospital  Health

We recommend that each participant undergoes a medical examination prior to the expedition. Good health is a prerequisite for participation. Particularly important is a visit to the dentist because previously unnoticed dental problems can become quite acute due to the sudden change in pressure conditions in higher altitudes.

 

landscape  Experience

We are very familiar with the charm and attraction of an eight-thousander! However, we want to make certain that you can ascend safely, come back alive, and be able to enjoy the expedition while on it and not afterwards. Therefore, in order to participate in our eight-thousander expeditions, you must already have collected some experience at high altitudes and mountaineering. When booking, please let us know which heights you have already reached and which high mountains you have climbed. If you are a newcomer, no problem, we offer a bespoke program aimed to train you for reaching your desired destination. For Everest take a look at our “Getting Ready for Everest“-program!

In order to participate in our seven-and six-thousander expeditions, you should have at least some experience on the four-thousander peaks of the Alps or other mountain ranges. Our offer for newcomers applies here as well, we can train you to become prudent and safe high altitude climbers!

We offer a special introductory weekend for all those who want to learn about – or refresh their knowledge of – all the skills and techniques needed on an expedition. More info here.

payment  Payment

Deposit Payment is made less than eleven months prior to the end of the trip and is a maximum of 20% of the price. The balance must be paid no earlier than 20 days prior to departure. Please find more information regarding the payment in our GTC.

directions_run  Right of withdrawal

The traveller has the right to withdraw from the travel contract at any time by paying the according cancellation fee stated in the General Terms of Conditions of Furtenbach Adventures GmbH.

For expeditions to 7000 and 8000 meter peaks the following fees apply for cancellations on the part of the client prior to travel: until 3 months prior to departure 50%, within 3 months prior departure 100%.

The tour operator will be released from the contract if the specified minimum number of participants is not achieved and if the customer has been notified about the cancellation in writing within the following periods: until 20 days prior to departure.