MOUNT EVEREST NORTH

  • Adventure Factor
    brave
  • Experience Value / Emotion
    lifechanging
  • Fitness / Struggle
    challenging
  • Risk
    the height
  • Travel Comfort
    expedition style

“What we get from this adventure is just sheer joy. And joy is, after all, the end of life. We do not live to eat and make money. We eat and make money to be able to live. That is what life means and what life is for.” George Mallory about his planned attempt to climb Everest

So much has already been written and continues to be written about it. Good and bad, fascinating, off-putting, captivating, strange, tragic and intriguing. Whatever your personal opinion, Everest is and will always remain the mother of all mountains. Its chronicle of ascents is unmatched in terms of drama, insanity and heroics. It is the playground of the elite alpinists of our time, and also the most dreamed-of mountain for so many climbers from all over the world. It is 8,848 meters of pure magnetism. It’s not just a mountain. Everest is a legend.

Furtenbach Adventures is the first independent European tour operator to offer Mount Everest ascents from both the north and the south at the same time. We offer the highest possible safety and quality standards and the reassurance for our clients that they are entrusting themselves to a licensed, strictly assessed Austrian expedition organizer.

  • 1:1 client to Sherpa ratio on summit day
  • Minimum 8 bottles of oxygen per client
  • IFMGA mountain guide
  • Limited number of participants
  • Smallest group size on the market 
  • for increased safety and higher success rate
  • 100% success rate 2017
  • 100% success rate 2018
  • 100% success rate 2019
  • Hypoxic tent for pre-acclimatization at home
  • Shorter expedition duration due to pre-acclimatization


North vs. South

The two ‘regular’ routes on Mount Everest each offer certain advantages, but also pose their own risks and challenges. The decision of whether to climb Everest from the Tibet side in the north, via the North Col and the Northeast ridge, or from Nepal in the south, over the Khumbu Icefall, Lhotse face and the Southeast Ridge, should be carefully weighed up. In many cases, the decision will be made based on a climber’s level of experience, their personality, and the ascent route they envisage. One side might be more appealing to you personally, more attractive, or the line more enticing to you. Listen to your gut, which is usually the best indicator in such circumstances, or seek advice from us.

North Side

+ objectively the safer ascent route

+ last camp is higher (8,300m) resulting in shorter summit day

+ more comfortable and luxurious base camp due to road access

- longer exposure to wind and cold during ascent

- final third of ascent technically more challenging, steeper ground

- descent from the summit more difficult

South Side

+ technically easier and longer ascent, sheltered from the wind

+ statistically higher chance of summitting

+ lower altitude base camp, resulting in better recovery

- avalanche and icefall risk at Khumbu Icefall and on Lhotse Face

- last camp at 8,000m, resulting in longer, more strenuous summit day

- overall ascent from base camp somewhat longer, requires more stamina

 

About Furtenbach Adventures Everest Expeditions

We run a unique style of Everest expedition with maximum oxygen and Sherpa support to achieve the highest level of safety and highest chances of success. The exclusive nature of Furtenbach Adventures makes our expeditions stand out from the rest – maybe even a bit better.

  • We benefit from 15 years of experience in organizing expeditions to eight-thousand-meter peaks in the Himalaya and Karakoram mountain ranges.

  • We employ experienced, state-certified (UIAGM/IFMGA) mountain guides, together with a team of proven Everest Sherpas.

  • Our climbing Sherpas have summitted Everest several times over and are highly skilled at knowing exactly how they can best support our climbers during their summit attempt.

  • In contrast to many other tour operators, we provide the most advanced, most reliable and easiest oxygen system available on the market, from Summit Oxygen.

  • We provide a minimum of 8 oxygen bottles to each of our climbers - more than any other operator. This means our clients can breathe at a higher flow rate while climbing and can sleep using oxygen from Camp 2 (North Col), thereby conserving energy.

  • Our climbers are better acclimatized by the time they arrive because they have already started their acclimatization process at home, 6 weeks prior to the start of the expedition. All high-altitude generator equipment is delivered to your home and collected when training is completed and includes a training plan and expert supervision. We take care of everything.

  • We provide one of the most comfortable base camp facilities ever to be seen on Everest.

  • The food that our kitchen teams produce is outstanding, turned out from a base camp kitchen on a glacial moraine at the ends of the Earth.

But finally, we give you the Furtenbach Adventures promise of quality:

More Sherpa support, more oxygen and more comfort than any other operator. This leads to better recovery, more safety and, ultimately, to higher chances of success. The overall expedition duration can be shortened through pre-acclimatization at home.

See also our 
Everest Flash Expedition (Everest in only 4 weeks) or our Classic Everest South Expedition

Watch 360° films of Everest South route

Everest blogger Alan Arnette interviews Lukas Furtenbach

For more reports and images of our past Everest expeditions, visit our blog pages: 2017 and 2018.

 

Mountain Guide / expedition leader for upcoming expedition: TBC

Dates:

 

 

April 16 - May 26, 2020 (42 days from/to Kathmandu)

Booking Code: EVERN20

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April 19 - May 30, 2021 (42 days from/to Kathmandu)

Booking Code: EVERN21

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Do you have questions

 

Price: € 56,990
Minimum group size: 4

Price includes:
All expedition organization costs
International Economy Flight to Kathmandu (Business Class on request)
State certified (UIAGM/IFMGA
) German / English speaking mountain guide throughout the expedition
4 nights in an upscale hotel in Kathmandu in a twin room (single room supplement)
All transfers including transport from Kathmandu – Everest BC – Kathmandu in off-road vehicles
Customs clearance at the Chinese (Tibetan) border
Full board for the duration of the trip (except in Kathmandu — breakfasts only)
Drinks during group meals (except alcoholic beverages)
Twin room for stop-overs on way to base camp
Baggage transport to base camp and back (max 40kg baggage per person)
1 Two-roomed tent with bed at base camp per person
Sleep mat for ABC
High camp equipment (tents, cooker, gas, crockery, food)
All safety equipment for the route
Use of fixed ropes along the route
Waste transport away from base camp
High altitude porters and climbing Sherpas (1:1 Sherpa client ratio on summit day)
Oxygen package provided by 
Summit Oxygen with mask & regulator and 8 bottles per participant
Hypoxic tent and generator for 6 weeks prior to expedition
Insurance and equipment for Nepalese staff
Emergency medical oxygen
First aid kit, high altitude emergency medicine, pulsoxymeter
Kitchen crew
Comfortable, heated group tent, shower tent, etc. at base camp
Satellite communications (WIFI, laptop, solar battery charger)
Two-way radio for each climber
All summit fees & permits
Weather updates
Safety and reassurance of an Austrian tour operator


Price does not include:
Lunches and non-group dinners in Kathmandu
Excess baggage fees on included flights
Personal insurance
Visa for Nepal (available at the airport, multiple entry 100 days USD 100, bring a passport photo!)
Personal medications
Alcoholic beverages
Tips
Personal mountain and climbing equipment
Sleeping bag for base camp and high camp
Charges for satellite phone use, emails
Summit bonus for personal climbing Sherpas

Optional:
single room surcharge € 500,-

Tour operator for this trip: Furtenbach Adventures GmbH, Hoehenstrasse 5, 6020 Innsbruck, AUSTRIA; phone: +43 (0) 512 204134, mail: info@furtenbachadventures.com).

The itinerary: 

The exact itinerary on Mount Everest is subject to changes in official regulations, weather and snow conditions, as well as the progress of line fixing along the route. The actual itinerary may differ. Schedules of other groups are also taken into account in order to avoid any potential bottlenecks. In addition to the basic framework which we provide, such as oxygen, Sherpa support, base camp set-up, route selection, high camp set-up etc., a successful ascent also involves a great deal of luck, good weather, and good physical and mental strength on the part of the climbers. We allow for maximum flexibility so that the expedition can be extended should circumstances require it, as long as participants wish to do so and are prepared to bear any additional costs incurred.

Day 1: Arrival and get-together at hotel in Kathmandu 
Meet and greet the other climbers while enjoying a beer in the hotel gardens. A great adventure awaits us, and our journey is soon to begin. You can feel the anticipation.

Days 2 - 3: Free days in Kathmandu 
Those who are not yet familiar with Kathmandu will fall in love with it. Relax in the comfortable hotel, shop and people-watch in Thamel, enjoy the cultural programme, or simply soak up the atmosphere. It’s up to you.

Day 4: Flight to Lhasa, capital of Tibet – probably one of the most stunning mountain flights in the world. You might even catch a glimpse of Everest.  The rest of the day free to explore Lhasa’s old town or enjoy a traditional Tibetan dinner.

Day 5: Sightseeing in Lhasa
There is still plenty of time today to visit the former residence of the Dalai Lama and the city's countless monasteries and temples, some of which have been declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites, or to watch Tibetans go about their daily lives while sipping a bowl of butter tea.

Day 6: Lhasa – Shigatse (3,800m)
Today we leave Lhasa, driving south towards Shigatse, the second largest city in Tibet, taking in the stark beauty of the Tibetan Plateau – worth the trip alone. 

Day 7: Transfer to Tingri at 4,300m. The accommodation is very simple again, but the food continues to be very good! 

Day 8: A rest day for everyone in order to acclimatize. Plenty of beautiful 5000-meter hills to hike. The landscape is even more barren here, which makes you wonder at the shepherds with their sheep.

Day 9: Transfer to Everest Base Camp (driver’s camp) at 5,200m.

Days 10 - 12: acclimatization in and around base camp.

Day 13: Ascent to middle camp at 6,200m on the way to Advanced Base Camp (ABC).

Day 14: Arrive at ABC at 6,400m. This is where you’ll feel the benefits of pre-acclimatization in hypoxic tents at home. 

Days 15 – 38: Acclimatization and Ascent
Thorough acclimatization, with a climb to approximately 7,500m. Our Sherpa team will set up three high camps at 7,000m (North Col), 7,800m and 8,300m. The actual ascent of Mount Everest is scheduled to occur between the 15
th and 26th of May, which is the period during which most of the successful summit days have taken place to date. Then we wait for a weather window for our first summit attempt. After the steep glacier climb to the North Col we stay at Camp 1, follow the less demanding North Ridge which leads us to the Northeast ridge, where we stay at Camp2 at about 7,800m, and then Camp3 at 8,300mFrom here we cross below the Northeast Ridge to the Northwest Face and then back to the ridge with the secured 1st, 2nd and 3rd steps (all secured by rope) and finally we tackle the summit faceFrom Camp 1 onwards, oxygen is available. At Camps 3 and 4, we will also sleep with oxygen. There is plenty of time for a few days of rest and a second attempt at the summit.

Day 39: Return trip ABC – BC

Days 40– 41: Transfer back to Kathmandu with probable one-night stay half way.

Day 42: Flight home.

General 

Despite modern equipment and tactics, high-altitude expeditions still present an enormous challenge. Aside from technical and fitness requirements, it is the altitude itself that presents the largest obstacle. For our Everest Flash Expedition, we use pre-acclimatization in a hypoxic tent at home. It is essential that Everest Flash climbers adhere strictly to the training and acclimatization programme (see our FAQs)
Weather and conditions on the mountain can lead to itinerary and/or route changes. Climbers take part in the expedition at their own risk and individual responsibility. Furtenbach Adventures assumes no liability for accidents, damages or loss of materials.
If you are not sure that taking part in an expedition like this is the right thing for you, feel free to contact Lukas Furtenbach on Tel +43 512 204134 or e-mail 
lukas@furtenbachadventures.com for a personal consultation.

This package in general is not suitable for persons with reduced mobility.

Difficulty / Technique
The ascent is the individual responsibility of the climber under the guidance of a mountain guide or expedition leader. Climbers must be able to move safely and independently over mixed ground (rock, snow, ice) and – if required – build rope teams independently under the supervision of the mountain guide / expedition leader. Cooperation, camaraderie and support on the mountain increase the chances of success for everyone. The guide is there to provide guidance for the whole group and can only respond to individual needs to a limited extent. It is imperative that climbers adhere to the instructions and decisions made by the mountain guide. Irrespective of this, each participant must know his or her own physical limits and, if required, make the decision to turn around in good time.

For expeditions offered by us, unless otherwise specified in the trip details, we require the following from climbers: the ability to clip in and out of fixed ropes independently on rock, snow, ice and corn snow slopes, as well as the ability to use crampons and ice axes to move over mixed ground independently. On climbing sections, and in dangerous or exposed situations, fixed ropes are attached by mountain guides and by the Sherpa team.

Physical fitness 
A key factor to an expedition’s success is good physical fitness. Train hard in the months leading up to the expedition! Several hour climbs with a pack on your back and negotiating 1000 meters of ascent in a day should not pose a problem for you. You have to carry your own personal equipment on the mountain, unless you have booked a personal Sherpa. The porters are there for the whole group, to set up the high camps and secure the route with fixed line. We will gladly provide individually tailored advice on how to best prepare yourself mentally and physically for an expedition.

Equipment 
Unless specified in the detailed trip notes, all high camp equipment is provided by us. You need to bring your own personal equipment such as down clothing, expedition boots, an insulated sleep mat and a sleeping bag with a comfort range of -20 to -25 degrees Celsius for the high camps. Once you have booked we will send you a detailed
 equipment list. We are happy to advise you on the selection and purchase of any equipment required. With years of expedition experience, we know what works and what does not.


Health 
We recommend that every climber undergoes a medical examination prior to deaprture. Good health is a prerequisite for any expedition. A visit to the dentist is particularly advisable, because previously undetected dental problems can become acute due to the sudden change in pressure at higher altitudes.

Experience 
We know how alluring and attractive an eight-thousand-meter peak can be. However, we’d like to make sure that you are able to climb the mountain safely, come back down safely and are able to enjoy the expedition while you’re on it and not just afterwards. Therefore, in order to embark on one of our eight-thousand-meter peak expeditions, you must already have some high altitude and mountaineering experience. When booking, please indicate what altitude you have already attained and which high peaks you have climbed. If you are a beginner, we offer a bespoke programme aimed at getting you ready for your chosen objective.


In order to participate in our seven-and six-thousander expeditions, you should have at least some experience on some of the four-thousander peaks of the Alps or other mountain ranges. Our offer for newcomers applies here as well: we can train you to become prudent and safe high-altitude climbers!


We offer a special introductory weekend for all those who want to learn about - or refresh their knowledge of - the skills and techniques required on an expedition. More info 
here.

Entry Requirements
Passport and Visa Regulations

Nepal
Swiss or EU citizens: When entering the country, you must have a minimum of 6 months validity left on your passport and a visa (available at the airport upon arrival, depending on the duration of your stay from 25 to 100 USD – bring a passport photo)

China 
Once arrived in Kathmandu, we'll apply for a group visa for Tibet. Necessary documents will be collected by Furtenbach Adventures in advance. The application process might take some days. Costs for the Chinese visa are included in the trip price.

Information on recommended vaccines and health regulations: http://www.who.int/ith/en/

More detailed information regarding entry, visa and health requirements for this travel destination will be provided once you’ve communicated your nationality.

Payment
Unless otherwise agreed, a deposit of 20% of the tour price is to be paid after receival of the invoice, but earliest eleven months before the end of the tour date. The balance must be paid 20 days prior to departure Please find more information regarding payments in our GTCs.

Cancellation
Clients have the right to withdraw from the travel contract at any time, paying any cancellation fees specified in the General Terms of Conditions of Furtenbach Adventures GmbH (https://www.furtenbachadventures.com/en/service/gtc/, item II. 7.).

For expeditions to 7000 and 8000-meter peaks, the following fees apply for cancellation on the part of the client prior to travel: up to 3 months prior to departure 50%, within 3 months of departure 100%.

The tour operator will be released from the contract if the specified minimum number of participants is not reached and if the customer has been notified about the cancellation in writing within the following periods: up to 20 days prior to departure.

Insurance possibilities
We strongly recommend taking out travel insurance (including trip cancellation, disruption, medical and luggage insurance). Due to the high insurance sum and long trip duration an insurance offer is put together individually by our insurance partner on request and passed on directly to the traveller.

To cover search and rescue costs in the mountains, we ask our expedition members to take out a “medical only”-membership at Global Rescue. This can be completed here before departure: https://ss.globalrescue.com/partner/furtenbach/ Further information is provided after booking.

 

Furtenbach Adventures is the most innovative organizer of expeditions and exclusive adventure travel.

book now

Get in touch

Furtenbach Adventures GmbH
Höttinger Gasse 12
6020 Innsbruck
Austria

+43 (0) 512 / 204134

office@furtenbachadventures.com

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