BROAD PEAK FLASH EXPEDITION

  • Adventure Factor
    brave
  • Experience Value / Emotion
    lifechanging
  • Fitness / Struggle
    challenging
  • Risk
    the height and the bottleneck
  • Travel Comfort
    expedition style

Time is a valuable commodity. We are about to change the fundamentals of high-mountain expeditions. For you.

A tribute to Hermann Buhl in only 4 weeks.

Our Flash expedition cuts the usual 40 days for a Broad Peak expedition to a minimum while increasing safety and chances of success.

From a purely statistical point of view, the Broad Peak is one of the objectively safest eight-thousanders which also has a very high success rate. The route is direct, relatively short and the few difficult passages are secured with fixed ropes. Because of this, and because of its lower altitude, the Broad Peak is the first eight-thousander for many high-altitude mountaineers. The Karakoram is often described as climatically harsher and colder than the Himalayan mountains. This, however, arises from a rather subjective sensation as opposed to scientifically validated values. First you hike for one week via the Baltoro glacier over boulders, ice and moraines to the mountain. Not through forests and meadows as is often the case in the Himalayas. It's all barren and thus acts inhospitable. But in reality it’s not colder. There are even days when you can sit on the Broad Peak summit in ski touring pants and a light windbreaker.

As far as the Pakistani government continues to permit it, we will fly in our experienced Sherpas from Nepal to support our Pakistani high altitude porters and secure the route. This is an additional safety factor.

One of the main reasons for a failed climb of a high summit is the long acclimatization time at the mountain. The repeated ascents and descents, the threat of catching an infection at the base camp, where many people must live in a very crowded space, robs many climbers the energy even before the actual climb has started. To raise the chances of success, we begin with the acclimatization process via hypoxic tents at the participants’ home, 6 weeks prior to our actual departure to Nepal. Those tents are going to be set up by our experts and under their supervision, the expedition members body will slowly be acclimatized to a height that is equivalent to around 7000m. Furtenbach Adventures is using hypoxic tents since almost two decades and we have a long experience with these means of acclimatization for high altitude mountaineering. In 2016, our team was the first successful Everest expedition, where all participants where pre-acclimatized with hypoxic tents. This decreased the time we had to acclimatize at the mountain significantly, before we could start our ascent to the summit. After reaching the summit, we were also the only team that was able to descend in one go to Camp 2. This higher performance capacity contributes largely to the safety aspect, thanks to proper pre-acclimatization.

These special preparations, combined with small groups, best oxygen-support, the latest equipment, an experienced team (some of our Sherpas have climbed Mount Everest up to 19 times) and our vast organizational experiences allow a total expedition duration of only 28 days. So far, we are the only operator at Broad Peak that can offer such a short period without increasing any risks. Since decades, the fundamental techniques, equipment, high-altitude medicine and weather forecasts have been developed over time. The climbing tactics however have remained the same as they were in the 1970s. We are about to change that by providing a modern climbing alternative which meets the current state of the art and respects the general principles of safety.  

 

Highlights:

  •  Shortened duration of the expedition (4 weeks only)
  • UIAGM / IFMGA mountain guide
  • Limited number of participants for more safety and higher chances of success
  • The Broad Peak Flash expedition is exclusively available at Furtenbach Adventures, no other operator reaches the 4-week mark.

 

 

Prior to the registration for the Everest Flash expedition, a personal talk is required.

 

June 17 - July 14, 2019 (28 days from/to Islamabad)

Booking Code: BPFL19

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June 15 - July 12, 2020 (28 days from/to Islamabad)

Booking Code: BPFL20

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Do you have questions

 

Price: € 16.590

Minimum members: 4

What the price includes:

All organization for the expedition

High altitude generator and tent for 6 weeks prior to the expedition

State certified (UIAGM) mountain guide

2 nights in double rooms at hotel in a very safe area of Islamabad (single room available for a supplement)

All Transfers (private bus or flight to Skardu – depending on weather)

Full board during the whole travel (only half board in Islamabad)

Beverages during joint meals (no alcoholic beverages)

Double room accommodation during our trip to the mountain

Porter / Yak to the base camp and back (40 kg personal luggage / person)

1 tent per member at the base camp
1 tent per 2 members during the approach and for the high camp

Mat for the base camp

High camp equipment (tents, mats, cooker, gas, dishes, food)

Total securing equipment

Climbing Sherpas for the group

Insurances (helicopter, accident) and equipment for all Nepalese team members

Emergency oxygen

Pharmaceutical travel kit, high altitude emergency medicine, pulsoxymeter

Kitchen team

Common tent, shower tent, power generator 2 hours per day etc at the base camp

Satellite communication (WIFI, laptop, solar loading facilities depending on availability)

Radio communication for base and high camp

All fees and permits

Government deposit for helicopter rescue (actual costs must be paid by members or their insurance / Global Rescue membership)
Environmental fee  
Weather forecast

Security and warranty of an Austrian tour operator 

What the price does not include:

International flight to Islamabad (we will gladly make you an offer)

Excess baggage on the flight to/from Skardu in case a flight is possible

Lunch in Islamabad

Personal insurance

Visa for Pakistan (must be obtained by members at the Pakistani Embassy in their home country in time)

Shipping costs for high altitude generator and tent outside of the EU

Personal medicine

Alcoholic beverages

Summit bonus for personal summit sherpas

Tips

Personal mountain and climbing equipment

Sleeping bag for base and high camp

Mat for high camp

Fees for satellite phone and emails

All not specifically mentioned included services

 

Optional:

Extension week and individual journey back to Islamabad: € 1.400

High Altitude Porter (costs can be splitted by 2 members): € 4.000

Oxygen Pack (2 bottles and rent mask & regulator): € 4.000

Tour operator for this trip: Furtenbach Adventures GmbH, Hoehenstrasse 5, 6020 Innsbruck, Austria, phone: +43 (0) 512 204134, mail: info@furtenbachadventures.com

The following schedule is planned:

Preparation:

In order to enable an expedition in such a short time frame, appropriate preparation is vital. The preparation starts with an individual consultation talk, where goals and training topics are defined. Every participant must have comprehensive mountain experience in high altitudes. Fitness and mental resilience must be trained intensively during the months prior to the expedition. Furthermore, we emphasize the importance of careful acclimatization. This will take place at the participants home via hypoxic tents: every participant will receive an individual training schedule and will be acclimatized in 6 weeks to a altitude of around 7000m. As a result, most of the risky and exhausting acclimatization ascents can be skipped and the total duration of the expedition can be limited to 3 weeks. If you have any questions, read our FAQs or contact us directly.  

The following schedule is planned:

The exact schedule might be subject to changes, due to weather and snow conditions on-sight. Furthermore we are traveling in a remote and politically sensitive region, where governmental or environmental restrictions may occur unexpected and can lead to travel restrictions. In addition to the basic framework which we provide, such as oxygen, Sherpa support, base camp, route, high camp etc., a successful ascent also requires a great deal of luck, good weather, good physical condition and mental strength of the participants. We allow maximum flexibility. The expedition can be extended if required by the circumstances, if the participants wish to do so and are ready to bear the additional costs incurred.

Day 1: Arrival in Islamabad and meet-up at the Hotel in Islamabad
Free day for the participants while the expedition leader takes care of the last administrative formalities the authorities.

Days 2-3: Depending on circumstances, either a two days bus ride to Skardu with an overnight stay at Chilas, or a flight to Skardu await us. The bus ride has its own charm and takes us through the varied landscape of Pakistan into the Indus valley, where we embark on the legendary Karakoram Highway. On the second day shortly after Chilas, weather permitting, we can see the Nanga Parbat with the Rhakiot flank mastered by Hermann Buhl. The ride on the second day is slightly shorter. Overnight stay at hotel in Skardu.

Day 4: We spend the day in the small but lively town of Skardu at 2300m. The carriers are organized, the luggage loaded, and you can run some last errands or go on a hike.

Days 5 - 8: Shortest possible way from Skardu to the base camp via Gondogoro pass. This usually takes around 4 days.

Days 9-21: We will have about two weeks for the ascent of Broad Peak, however we want to stay flexible due to weather and snow conditions as well as the participants‘ needs and requirements. We will set up 2-3 high camps. The first, which we could skip later on, will be situated on a small plateau following the first firn flank at 5700m which will be secured with fixed ropes. The next camp will be at ca. 6300m and the last one at 7100m. 

The summit tour first takes us to the 7800m high saddle between the northern peak and the pre-summit, then via the wide ridge with a few easy climbs (second level of difficulty - here we will use a fixed rope) to the pre-summit. From here we easily (walking terrain) continue over a wide, gently sloping ridge that is by far not as long as often described, towards the main summit. This ridge is often blown off, facilitating easy advancement. If conditions are good, and participants are in a healthy and normal state, we can accomplish this in about half an hour there and 20 minutes back.

Day 22: The group makes their way back to Skardu via the shorter route over the Gondogoro pass or stop at a smaller base camp with reduced service (without a guide?) for another summit attempt, in case the first one was not successful. The way back to Islamabad is organized for the group, an individually planned return is available at extra cost.

Arrival to Islamabad would then be on the 27th day, the flight home on the 28th day, unless you decide to undertake a second summit attempt. We want all participants to have as many opportunities as possible for their summit success. For more flexibility, we recommend to book a flexible flight fare for your flight back to Europe.

General 
An expedition to high altitudes still presents an enormous challenge despite modern equipment and tactics. Besides technical and fitness requirements, the high altitude still poses the largest hurdle. That is why we place great emphasis on prudent, slow acclimatization, and recommend our eight thousander expedition participants the possibility of pre-acclimatization in a high altitude tent at home (see also 
FAQ). 
Weather and conditions on the mountain can lead to program or route changes. Participation in the expedition lies in your own individual responsibility. Furtenbach Adventures assumes no liability for accidents, damages or loss of materials.
If you are not sure whether taking part in an expedition is the right thing for you, feel free to contact Lukas Furtenbach at Tel +43 512 204134 or per email 
lukas@furtenbachadventures.com for an answer to this question during a personal interview!

This package in general is not suitable for persons with reduced mobility.

Difficulty / Technique
The ascent always lies in the participant‘s personal responsibility, while led by the mountain guide and expedition leader. Participants must be able to move safely and independently in mixed terrain (rock, snow, ice) and – if required – independently build rope teams under the guidance of the mountain guide. Cooperation, camaraderie and support on the mountain increases the chances of success for all. The guide is there to provide guidance for the whole group, the possibilities for him to respond to individual needs is limited. It is imperative that participants adhere to the instructions and decisions made by the mountain guide. Regardless, each participant must know their own physical limits, and be able to make a timely decision to turn back.

For expeditions offered by us, unless otherwise specified in the detailed program, the following is required of participants: independent getting on and off the fixed ropes on cliffs, snow, ice and firn snow slopes, as well as the independent use of crampons and ice axes in mixed terrain. On climbing passages, as well as very dangerous and exposed places, fixed ropes are attached by mountain guides and by the Sherpa team.

Physical fitness 
A key success factor in expeditions is being in good shape. Train in the months before the expedition! Several hour climbs with a backpack and around 1000 meters per day should not be a problem for you. Mental training is also advised for this very challenging expedition. We will gladly provide individual advice on how to best prepare yourself mentally and physically for an expedition!

Equipment 
Unless specified otherwise in the detailled program, all high camp equipment will be provided by us. You need to bring your own personal equipment such as down clothing, expedition shoes, an isolated sleeping mat and a sleeping bag with a comfort range of - 20 to -25 degrees celsius for the high camp. Following your booking we will send you a detailed
 equipment list. We will be happy to advise you personally during the selection and purchase of required equipment. With years of expedition experience, we know what has proved its worth and what not.

Health 
We recommend that each participant undergoes a medical examination prior to the expedition. Good health is a prerequisite for participation. Particularly important is a visit to the dentist because previously unnoticed dental problems can become quite acute due to the sudden change in pressure conditions in higher altitudes.

Experience 
We are very familiar with the charm and attraction of an eight-thousander! However, we want to make certain that you can ascend safely, come back alive, and be able to enjoy the expedition while on it and not afterwards. Therefore, in order to participate in our eight-thousander expeditions, you must already have collected some experience at high altitudes and mountaineering. When booking, please let us know which heights you have already reached and which high mountains you have climbed. If you are a newcomer, no problem, we offer a bespoke program aimed to train you for reaching your desired destination.

In order to participate in our seven-and six-thousander expeditions, you should have at least some experience on the four-thousander peaks of the Alps or other mountain ranges. Our offer for newcomers applies here as well, we can train you to become prudent and safe high altitude climbers!

We offer a special introductory weekend for all those who want to learn about - or refresh their knowledge of - all the skills and techniques needed on an expedition. More info
here.

Entry Requirements

Passport and Visa Regulations

Pakistan
Swiss or EU citizens: When entering the country, you need a passport with a validity of at least 6 more months and a visa that has to be obtained in time  by members in their home country at the Pakistani embassy

Information on recommended vaccines and health regulations:
http://www.who.int/ith/en/

 

More detailed information regarding entry, visa and health requirements for this travel destination will be provided once you’ve communicated your nationality.

 

Payment

Deposit Payment is made less than eleven months prior to the end of the trip and is a maximum of 20% of the price. The balance must be paid no earlier than 20 days prior to departure. Please find more information regarding the payment in our GTC.

 

Right of withdrawal

The traveller has the right to withdraw from the travel contract at any time by paying the according cancellation fee stated in the General Terms of Conditions of Furtenbach Adventures GmbH (https://www.furtenbachadventures.com/en/service/gtc/, item II. 7.).

For expeditions to 7000 and 8000 meter peaks the following fees apply for cancellations on the part of the client prior to travel: until 3 months prior to departure 50%, within 3 months prior departure 100%.

 

The tour operator will be released from the contract if the specified minimum number of participants is not achieved and if the customer has been notified about the cancellation in writing within the following periods: until 20 days prior to departure.

 

Insurance possibilities

We strongly recommend taking out a travel insurance (including trip cancellation, interruption, medical and luggage insurance) at “Europäische Reiseversicherung AG” [European Travel inscurance].

Due to the high package price and long trip duration an insurance offer will be provided directly and individually by the travel insurance company after your booking.

To cover search and rescue costs in the mountains, we ask our expedition participants to take out a “medical only”-membership at Global Rescue. This membership can be concluded here before departure: https://ss.globalrescue.com/partner/furtenbach/ Further information are provided after your booking.

 

 

 

Furtenbach Adventures is the most innovative organizer of expeditions and exclusive adventure travel.

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Get in touch

Furtenbach Adventures GmbH
Höttinger Gasse 12
6020 Innsbruck
Austria

+43 (0) 512 / 204134

office@furtenbachadventures.com

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